What are you carving?
Start by thinking about your project. Different projects call for different tools.
RELIEF CARVING
For creating raised patterns, ornaments, and detailed designs.
SPOONS & BOWLS
For carving spoons, bowls, kuksas, and other hollowed wooden forms.
FIGURE CARVING
For carving wooden figures, sculptures, and detailed characters.
WOODURNING
For shaping and finishing wood on a lathe.
GEOMETRIC CARVING
For creating precise geometric patterns, lines, and decorative ornaments in wood.
LEATHERWORKING
For cutting, carving, and shaping leather.
LINOCUT
For carving stamps, prints, and detailed designs in linoleum.
SCULPTURE CARVING
For carving three-dimensional sculptures, statues, and artistic forms in wood.
BUSHCRAFT CARVING
For carving and woodworking outdoors, camping, and bushcraft.
1. The Right Tool for Your Carving
- Relief Carving → straight chisels, V-parting tools, gouges
- Spoons & Bowls → hook knives, bent gouges
- Figures & Sculpture → carving knives, gouges, bent tools
- Fine Details → detail knives, palm , V-tools
- Deep Carving & Hollowing → bent gouges / spoon tools
2. Choose the Blade Shape
Straight Chisel
For open and easy-to-reach surfaces
Straight tools have a straight blade and shaft, giving you direct control over the cut. They are ideal for working on flat or open surfaces, shaping wood, leveling areas and creating clean, controlled cuts.
Best for:
- Flat surfaces
- General carving
- Shaping & leveling
Bent Tools
For hollowing and curved surfaces
Bent tools have a curved (bent) shaft — the blade bends from handle to edge, letting it reach into hollows and pull through curves a straight tool can't. This bend gives a scooping, pulling cut instead of a direct push.
Best for:
- Hollowing & concave surfaces
- Bowl & spoon carving
- Scooping cuts
Short Bent Gouge
For deep hollowing and tight curves
A short, tightly curved shaft bends sharply near the handle into a short tapered neck before the edge — letting it dive into deep, narrow vessels and follow steep walls without catching the rim.
Best for:
- Deep hollowing
- Spoon & kuksa bowls
- Background cleanup
Large Bent Gouge
For deep hollowing with maximum reach
A long, curved "swan neck" shaft bends further from the handle than a short bent gouge, giving the edge extra reach without the handle getting in the way.
Best for:
- Deep hollowing & max reach
- Large bowls & basins
- Clearing waste wood
Hook Knife
For hollowing spoons, cups, and bowls
A hook knife has a tightly curved, hook-shaped shaft — the blade curls into a near-closed radius right at the edge, letting it scoop wood out from inside a hollow rather than push through it.
Best for:
- Hollowing spoon & cup bowls
- Scooping waste wood
- Clean, facet-free interiors
Knives
For carving, slicing, and detail work
Knives have a blade guided entirely by hand, not pushed with a mallet. Blade shapes vary by task — straight for blocking out, curved for detail work — but all give direct hand control for precise slicing and paring cuts, adjusting angle.
Best for:
- Carving figurines & small details
- Blocking out & roughing blanks
- Contour & handle shaping
Drawknife
For rapid surface leveling and shaping
A drawknife has a straight blade with a handle on each end, pulled toward you with both hands instead of pushed with one. This two-handed pull gives strong, controlled leverage for stripping off wood fast.
Best for:
- Fast bulk wood removal
- Leveling rough surfaces
- Prepping logs & blanks for shaping
Geometric Carving Knives (AY Series)
For precise chip carving and grid layouts
Geometric carving knives have a short, rigid blade set close to the handle, keeping your grip low and stable right at the point of the cut. This short distance from hand to edge eliminates flex and drift, letting you execute clean, repeatable cutsithi.
Best for:
- Chip carving & geometric patterns
- Triangles, rhombuses & grids
- Precise, controlled cuts
Turning Tools
For woodturning on the lathe
Turning tools have a long, rigid shaft riding on a tool rest, not gripped and pushed by hand alone — the wood spins while the edge stays steady, guided along the rest for a continuous cut.
Best for:
- Roughing & shaping round stock
- Fine spindle detail
- Interior bowl/vessel refinement
3. Choose Profile
The next step is the profile — the shape of the cutting edge, viewed from the front. This is what actually determines the shape of the cut left in the wood, ranging from perfectly flat to a deep, rounded scoop.
Profiles are labeled by number, and the rule is simple: the higher the number, the deeper the curve.
- #1 — Straight: Flat edge that leaves a flat, even cut.
- #3 — Slight curve: A gentle curve that softens sharp edges.
- #5 — Medium curve: A moderate, well-rounded curve.
- #7 — Deep curve: A noticeably deeper curve that adds real dimension.
- #8 — Very deep:
Best for pronounced shaping and tighter interior curves. - #9 — Semicircular: A full half-circle shape, the deepest profile available.
Choose the skew angle
For angled (skew) chisels, the key measurement isn't the profile — it's the angle of the cutting edge itself, measured from the shaft. This angle determines how the tool enters tight corners and how it slices across the grain.
- 45°: A sharp, aggressive skew. Best for reaching deep into tight, acute corners and undercutting where a straighter edge can't fit.
- 60°: A moderate skew. A versatile middle ground — good corner access while still giving a stable, controlled paring cut.
- 90°: A straight-across edge, no skew at all. Best for clean, straight cuts and flat shoulder work, similar to a standard flat chisel.
4. Choose the blade width
Blade width is how wide the cutting edge is at the very tip of the tool — and it's not fixed, it varies from chisel to chisel, even within the same type of tool.
The logic behind choosing it is simple: it comes down to how detailed your work is versus how much volume you need to shape.
- The more detailed the work, the narrower the edge should be. A narrow cutting edge gives you precision — it's easier to control in tight spaces, small curves, and fine details where accuracy matters more than speed.
- The larger the form you're working, the wider the edge should be. A wide cutting edge covers more surface with each cut, so you shape volume faster — ideal for relief work, roughing out large areas, or sculptural forms.
3-10 mm
Narrow enough to follow tight curves and small cuts precisely. This is the width for delicate detail work, where control matters more than coverage.
10-30 mm
Wide enough to shape form, not just lines. This range handles relief carving and volumetric work — giving a piece depth and dimension without losing control.
30-50 mm
Built for scale. These blades clear large volumes of material fast, making them the choice for sculptural forms and bold, broad shaping.
FAQs
How do I know which shaft shape I need — straight, bent, or hook?
It depends on what you're carving. Straight tools work best on flat, open surfaces. Bent tools reach into curves and hollows. Hook knives are made specifically for scooping out spoon and bowl interiors.
What size should a beginner start with?
A medium width (around 10–15 mm) with a medium profile (#5) is the easiest to control while learning, before moving to narrower or wider tools for specific detail or bulk work.
Are these tools right- or left-handed?
Most straight tools and gouges work for both hands. Hook knives and some skew chisels are direction-specific — check the product page for handedness options.
How do I maintain the cutting edge once I've chosen my tools?
Use a leather strop with polishing compound. Some carvers strop mid-project to keep the edge sharp as they go, others just strop after finishing — both work, pick what's comfortable. You'll need a strop with the right groove for your tool's profile (V-tools, gouges, straight tools, etc.) — you can find our profile leather strops on our website.